Fractal Design Meshify C Front Fans

hornetmax · Nov 2, 2011 18 0 18,510 0

Hi all,

I've got a Meshify C with a 2070 super and a 9900K, no overclock. Cooling-wise, I've a Thermalright Macho RevB, 2x Corsair AF140 front (intake) and 2x Fractal 120mm fans out (rear and meridian-rear).

Since the 9900K (had a 9600K before), CPU (and VRMs) temps go a chip high during heavy loads (e.g h265 encoding): VRMs striking 98C, CPU cores overing at 88C, hitting (very occasioanlly) +95C and causing (again, very occasionally) thermal throttling. Information technology's non a huge problem, simply I'd exist more comfy with lower temps on both CPU and VRMs.

While under full load, I removed the front and top filter of the Meshify C (metal filigree + cream): that gained me 6C on the CPU and 15C on the VRMs (!!).

Now I'm wondering: what shoud I do to accept more flow from the two front fans ? Options I see:

Take the foam away from the front filter (keep simply the metallic filigree).
Accept the foam away from the front filter (keep simply the metal grid) merely put some good filtes on the front fans: things like Silverstone F143 or Demci Flex.
Swap the two forepart Corsair AF140 in the front end for something else ? College static pressure level to "overcome" the foam ? Which fan ?

Pick 1: merely a affair of judging fs the grit is manageable without the foam.
Option ii: I'thousand unsure how much better this would be compared to the foam. Whatever idea ?
Choice 3: I'one thousand OK with the fans being a bit loud if spinning fast, just at low loads I'd like them to be quiet (i.eastward. similar to the AF140 I have).

Any advice is welcome !

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 v,379 167,690 9,178

Aforementioned argument we always hear, regarding Arctic. Aye, they have some ok fans for the price and if price is the biggest concern then they are (so far as nosotros know so far since generally these fan models haven't been around long plenty to make whatsoever determinations almost longevity) a decent enough option.

Personally, if cost is the biggest hindrance, I'd much prefer to go with these than anything made past Arctic, and I'yard not saying that because I recollect Arctic is crap, simply that Noctua is superior and exemplary in but about every way a fan could exist.

This is about half the toll of the other two fans I recommended. They aren't AS good as those other fans, and maybe not the preferred color scheme, but they are very skillful fans with good operation and quality.

PCPartPicker Role List

Case Fan: Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Noctua P12 redux-1700 PWM 70.75 CFM 120 mm Fan ($13.90 @ Amazon)
Total: $28.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-15 eighteen:20 EST-0500

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 5,379 167,690 ix,178

The outset thing you should probably do is replace the stock Fractal fans with some fans that can actually move some air. I have a pile of those stock Fractal Dynamic X2 GP fans on the shelf higher up my workbench, and while they are quite good for included free fans, they don't compare at all to any of the amend aftermarket PWM fans out there. Also, I'd supercede the top-rear fan with a 140mm version every bit it will, obviously, mostly exist capable of moving more air at the same RPM or racket normalized load than a similar 120mm model.

Intake is a necessary, essential part of the cooling equation, but MORE intake beyond a point does not equal better cooling. More exhaust, but about E'er results in an increase in cooling performance and it ALSO allows the front fans to piece of work a lot more efficiently every bit there is less resistance to airflow into the case when there is a loftier level of negative pressure. Simply, since negative pressure level tends to promote dust collection while positive pressure tends to suppress information technology, we usually attempt to go with a pretty much counterbalanced, neutral pressure level arrangement to get some of each benefit even though nosotros don't become all of them both.

For purely functioning related configurations a system where the cooling system is purely negative pressure would e'er outperform 1 that was tilted deep into positive pressure territory.

These, MIGHT make a departure. Should, actually, make a difference. And are a whole lot quieter than those X2 GP fans, and then that even when running at full speed y'all can barely hear them from three feet away. The 140mm fan adds about an additional 30CFM of air movement OUT of the instance, which is near as much as adding a whole actress fan by comparison. The 120mm Noctua fan doesn't add much, but keeps things uniform. If yous want to use that fan to add boosted performance and are willing to cede a little bit of additional noise at higher RPMs, so the Noctua NF-F12 Industrial iPPC 2000rpm fans would add about an additional 20CFM air movement to the 30CFM gained with the 140mm fan which WOULD definitely be like add a whole other exhaust fan without the problems associated with botching the airflow path that occur when using a middle or front meridian exhaust fan on air cooled systems.

PCPartPicker Part List

Instance Fan: Noctua F12 PWM chromax.black.swap 54.97 CFM 120 mm Fan ($22.90 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Noctua A14 PWM chromax.black.swap 82.52 CFM 140 mm Fan ($24.ninety @ Amazon)
Total: $47.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-14 17:04 EST-0500

Once y'all do THAT, THEN adding some boosted performance through the front fans MIGHT be worth looking into. It might besides non be a bad idea to think well-nigh a better CPU libation. While the Macho rev.B IS a proficient cooler, it might actually be a bit lacking when it comes to your 9900k. Those big i7 and i9 CPUs with all those cores, these days, really need a twin finstack cooler, noting that the Manlike IS a Large finstack, but information technology does not have the surface area of any of the big twin finstack coolers.

Karadjgne · Dec 26, 2012 28,795 iii,762 126,140 5,106

The Meshify C is nearly equally skilful as it gets for an airflow case for an air cooler. From what I've seen, the all-time setup is just using the stock rear 120mm and 3x forepart fans, leaving the baffles intact on the top.

The difference in cpu/VRM temps with removing the superlative baffles is an easy explanation, if you understand how a fan works and air pressure level. When a bract spins, it creates a low pressure expanse above it, the byproduct being the displaced air forced out the back. At higher rpm, the pressure is disproportionate, at that place's college pressure on exhaust than intake, the stream is more than condensed. Nature abhors a vacuum, so the largest, nearest, easiest path for air is outside being pushed by 14.seven psi into the case. Literally when you lot remove the top baffles, they become intake ports for the cpu and rear exhaust, bypassing almost of the intake fans air which is fatigued/blown towards the gpu.

So while you run across a benefit in your mind as to cpu temps, reality is its a detriment to everything else equally case air temps are higher. Similar sucking on a straw that's got a crack in information technology, y'all get more flow, but less soda.

With the top intact, there'south no choice. The cpu and rear exhaust accept no options as the easiest path is whatsoever the intake fans supply. Having a high mountain fan really works in that instance, as information technology pushes any ceiling heat towards the rear. With merely the ii lower fans in front, you get a Hotspot at the top/front, and thats a good portion of where the cpu cooler pulls from.

I can second Darkbreeze pick in fan replacements, I've got 4 of those in my own organization, but too consider exactly how the air is moving, or not moving, and try different fan placements, dissimilar fan curves etc. Improve fans will help existing expert airflow, they rarely do much for bad airflow characteristics.

hornetmax

Thanks for the replies. Looking at the graphs I nonetheless recollect there'southward something bad going on at the front end, not at the back. Let me explain.
Towards the end of the examination I was running without the forepart and top filters. Both front (in) and rear+top rear (out) fans running at 100% every bit the VRM temps were to a higher place 80C.
At that indicate I accept put the front end filter on once again (not the tiptop ane). What happened:

Rear+top rear RPMs (the two fans are on a Y -splitter) went instantly downward a fleck. This is expected: with the forepart filter on now it'southward harder to pull air out of the instance.
Front fans RPMs went instantly upward. That's weird no ?

All these fans accept curves on the same probe (VRM temp).

Information technology doesn't seem to be a fluke every bit I had the dual behavior when I removed the filters: rear+top fan (out) RPMs go upwhile front fans (in) RPM get downwards.

Why is this happening ?

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 5,379 167,690 9,178

It is very simple to decide if airflow through the case is the trouble.

Remove the side panel and conduct your tests again. If the CPU temp doesn't drop by five or more degrees by simply taking the side panel off then goose egg yous do with airflow though the case is going to make any deviation in that regard and you might as well shift your focus, at that betoken, to figuring out what else is going on such as non having the best thermal paste application, too much voltage somewhere, non proficient enough motherboard for the CPU model, etc.

hornetmax · November 2, 2011 18 0 xviii,510 0

It is very simple to determine if airflow through the example is the problem.
Remove the side panel and carry your tests again. If the CPU temp doesn't drop past five or more degrees by simply taking the side panel off then nothing yous do with airflow though the example is going to make any difference in that regard

But isn't this already confirmed ? As I said in my 1st mail service:

While nether full load, I removed the front and top filter of the Meshify C (metal filigree + foam): that gained me 6C on the CPU and 15C on the VRMs (!!).

That's why I was thinking about removing the front foam and/or having "stronger" fans (higher static pressure) at the front end ...

Max

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 5,379 167,690 nine,178

Obviously, everything you remove from the air path will better performance. The less resistance, the better the airflow. No filters equals less resistance. No foam equals less resistance. And then on. Only that might non BE the trouble at all. I'd perform the tests with the side console off and see what kind of results you get, and then go from there. Of form, you can ever upgrade Whatever of the fans, at any time, just because information technology is more similar an investment in your organisation when you buy high quality fans and information technology usually results in a quieter one besides, but also for performance reasons.

I recollect one of the biggest things yous can practise is replace that 120mm peak-rear fan that only moves 50cfm to a 140mm fan that moves virtually 90. That should also help, to some degree or other, with the VRM temps likewise.

Owterspace

Yes I removed all filters and foam. Meshify is a great case for air cooling, but yous demand strong fans. 60cfm is not strong. Expect for something effectually 75cfm and upward..

Karadjgne · Dec 26, 2012 28,795 three,762 126,140 five,106

Y'all do realize what cfm is? Cubic feet per minute. A cubic human foot is 1' x ane' x i' of air. 50 cfm is plenty airflow to replace one-half the air in a garage in i minute. Shoved through a box that's on boilerplate ony a total of about ane cubic foot.

Roughly, a single input and single output fan can replace all the air in that case 50x in 1 minute, or a little nether full replacement every 2nd.

That's plenty of possible movement. Which is why you'll come across seriously diminishing returns at anything over 4x 120mm, (2x in, 2x out) for 2x reasons. First beingness the case air doesn't get much opportunity to estrus upwards and build upwardly, the second being that low case air temp can't become whatsoever colder than the ambience air introduced, so has no further affect on heatsinks to reduce temps.

Air is i thing, air flow is some other entirely. Replacing all the air in a case roughly every second or every other second, is enough of flow, merely information technology has to actually motility in/out and not enter a circulatory blueprint. The strongest area of vacuum is closest to the fan blades, past opening vents close to the fan, they become intakes for air. So the cpu cooler forepart fan is cartoon air from that top, unrestricted hole. Consequently it's getting a libation ambient air source and the cpu temps go downward.

Just only like having a hole in a straw, that ways less air is used from the intakes, which allows buildup of heat in other areas as example air looses momentum. Your business organisation for cpu/VRM temps is admirable, but they are not everything. There'due south also Sata chipsets, Northbridge (pcie chipset), super i/o etc that are not temp reported, but just as vital to pc wellness. Yous cede one at the expense of the other.

Which can touch stability, functioning, boost levels of cpu/gpu, bulldoze wellness and life etc. Information technology's more of import to maintain middling temps on everything, moving all the air in the case out, than aiming for performance out of i or 2 components. Better fans will increment airflow potential, but aimed wrong can end up doing exactly nothing.

View: https://grand.youtube.com/watch?five=OupiPZybyBE

Perfect example. It'southward non so much the quality, you could put 3000rpm Industrial Noctua in that instance, merely simply the lack of Flow that destroys everything, the air goes nowhere.

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 5,379 167,690 9,178

That comment, would seem to have been directly intended equally a reply to the post from Owterspace, except Owterspace is not the OP so it'due south kind of weird.

Karadjgne · Dec 26, 2012 28,795 3,762 126,140 5,106

Eh, somewhat. More than of a clarification. But every bit long every bit it helps Op see the bigger picture than just a cpu temp, I'yard good with it. A case total of Noctua is a wonderful thing, but ultimately useless if they are not doing the job the correct manner. Optimizing the airflow is priority, the amend fans are icing on the cake.

Owterspace

Indeed. I was only saying more than airflow is helpful. I run 120x38s in just about every pigsty of my case, works nifty. Not the quietest but its very adept, if not fantabulous.. Gets a bit dusty but Datavacs are good. Anyways.. sorry to interrupt.

hornetmax · November 2, 2011 xviii 0 eighteen,510 0

But just like having a pigsty in a straw, that means less air is used from the intakes, which allows buildup of rut in other areas every bit case air looses momentum. Your business concern for cpu/VRM temps is admirable, but they are not everything. There'southward also Sata chipsets, Northbridge (pcie chipset), super i/o etc that are not temp reported, but just as vital to pc wellness. Yous sacrifice 1 at the expense of the other.

All other temps are already OK, that's why I didn't mention them.

Meliorate fans will increase airflow potential, merely aimed wrong tin end upward doing exactly nothing.

Can't disagree with that, but what are you implying ?
I have 2 front 140mm intake and 2 rear/top-rear 120mm exhaust: you hateful I'm aiming them wrong ?

I know that it's to be expected to accept lower temps if I remove any filter, what I tin can't explain is that if I remove the filters, the exhaust fans instantly drop some RPMs while front end fans instantly gain some RPMs. Tin't figure out why ...

Anyhow, as the temps get downwardly when I remove the filters, this ways that the arrangement could do good from a bit more flow coming in. 3 means to obtain that:

Get rid of the filters.
Keep the filters and accept "stronger" intake fans
Keep the filters and have "stronger" exhaust fans

I was thinking more than about ii (equally the AF140 have low static pressure and hence they may struggle with the forepart foam filter) but it's true that the top-rear could benefit from a 140mm (could help the VRMs). Maybe I'll just buy 2 Arctic P14 for the front (as they take slightly higher CFM only much college static pressure than the AF1450s) and move ane AF140 as summit-rear (the filter there is just a mesh, no foam).

Karadjgne · Dec 26, 2012 28,795 iii,762 126,140 five,106

Filters are a personal choice, for about they are a benefit, my pc has none, just doesn't need them.

Exist careful with stats. They don't tell the full tale. One fan might have better cfm or sp than another, merely that's simply at maximum rpm. Says nothing for the space in between. Noctua is actually perfect for that example. The NF-F12 has quite loftier sp, the NF-S12 has high cfm. Both ends of the scale. The A12x25 doesn't have as loftier every bit either, only information technology's performance curve is convex whereas the S/F fans are concave. So if you await at the curves superimposed, at @ 1/3-two/3rds rpm, the A12x25 has much higher performance than both the South and F fans in both SP and cfm.

More air and stronger, correct where the fans spend the majority of their rpm life-cycle, not at maximum, but in the heart ranges between idle speeds and boilerplate case temps. And that's a common phenomenon, ofttimes the multipurpose designed fans exceed the performance of dedicated fans everywhere except at the stated maximums.

The Arctics are very quiet, and very skillful for their price, if you run them apartment out, it's when running them at a more average rate, they autumn flat on their face, performance drops significantly.

Replacing fans isn't cheap, my 4x Noctua price $70 (on sale), so for nigh ppl it'southward a 1 shot deal, that means looking for the right fan for the intended purpose, but as well must take into business relationship all the variables. Just looking at maximum stats tin be misleading and entirely possible you lot'll lose performance vrs the stock fans and almost ppl are clueless every bit to why that happened.

Using HWInfo (sensors only) as part of optimizing fan curves, seeing what happens to all its reported temps, at what speeds, vs your tolerance levels for dissonance, vs changes in fan or bamboozle placements etc. Some of u.s. are lucky (like Darkbreeze) and have access to multiple fans of unlike types and designs, so nosotros go to flip-flop fans and see differences they can make. So when someone similar Darkbreeze recommends a sure class of action, like the Noctua he recommended, yous can have it on faith that in that location's a very good reason for such. We've already washed the homework for yous.

Just the rest is on you. Setting curves, sizes, placement etc. For the Meshify I prefer 3x 120mm in front, 1x 120mm rear, baffles in place, top sealed. That may not be your choice or an bachelor option so you lot'll need to play effectually with things to get the best performance from your pc for your own needs.

hornetmax · Nov 2, 2011 18 0 18,510 0

OK, thaks a lot for all the answers.

3x120 front not doable: I don't want to accept away the psu embrace, so must stick with 2x140 front end + 1x120 rear (140not possible) and 1x120/140 tiptop-rear (140 a bit of a tight fit due to MB cables only it should be OK).

Noctua'due south: no incertitude they are excellent, only price is a flake steep and some tests I've found effectually (see beneath) seems to point that the Arctic P14 seems adept, at least when the price is factored in: I tin can have the A14 PWM Chroma for 25E but the Arctic P14 PWM is only 12E (10E without PWM).

Independently on the models I'll buy, electric current dilemma is if I should buy:

two new 140mm fans to be put in the front, one of my AF140 will go equally acme-rear replacing one of the X2 GP and the other will sleep in a drawer (rear fan will still be a X2 GP).
1 new 140mm and one new 120mm, to supercede respectively the top-rear and rear X2 GP (I'll proceed the AF140 on the front, every bit correct now).

My understanding is that you seem to suggest to become for option two, but my fear is that if it's the frot that is choking, having better exhaust fans won't assistance much.

MaX.

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 v,379 167,690 nine,178

Same argument nosotros ever hear, regarding Chill. Yeah, they have some ok fans for the cost and if price is the biggest business concern then they are (so far every bit we know then far since mostly these fan models haven't been around long enough to make whatever determinations about longevity) a decent enough choice.

Personally, if cost is the biggest hindrance, I'd much prefer to go with these than anything fabricated by Arctic, and I'm non saying that considering I recollect Arctic is crap, just that Noctua is superior and exemplary in just most every mode a fan could be.

This is about half the cost of the other 2 fans I recommended. They aren't Every bit good as those other fans, and maybe not the preferred color scheme, but they are very skillful fans with good performance and quality.

PCPartPicker Role Listing

Case Fan: Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon)
Example Fan: Noctua P12 redux-1700 PWM 70.75 CFM 120 mm Fan ($xiii.ninety @ Amazon)
Total: $28.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-15 eighteen:20 EST-0500

Karadjgne · Dec 26, 2012 28,795 three,762 126,140 5,106

Arctic MTBF (Mean Time Before Failure) is 50k hours. That'southward 6 years of abiding utilise. Or closer to ten year warranty nether normal ish usage.

Noctua MTBF is 150k hours. Pregnant 17.5 years of 24/7/365 utilize. Under normal pc utilise, you'll be by retirement and in an old folks home long before that fan is expected to quit. Warranty catamenia of 5 years, they could realistically put it at 20 years and non be joking.

While that merits might exist overkill, it'due south a skilful measure of exactly what it means when you get what y'all pay for. Information technology means every time I get a new pc, if I had Arctic fans, they need replacing. And Arctic is non the simply 1, most companies have like MTBF.

Information technology means that even if I become lax on cleanings and kill half the expected lifespan, I'll still expect a good 10 years out of a Noctua, or iii years from Arctic.

hornetmax · Nov 2, 2011 18 0 18,510 0

Same argument we always hear, regarding Arctic. Yes, they have some ok fans for the cost and if toll is the biggest concern then they are (so far as we know so far since by and large these fan models haven't been around long enough to brand any determinations about longevity) a decent plenty choice.
Personally, if cost is the biggest hindrance, I'd much prefer to go with these than anything made past Chill, and I'1000 non saying that because I call up Arctic is crap, just that Noctua is superior and exemplary in just about every way a fan could exist.

This is almost half the cost of the other two fans I recommended. They aren't Equally good equally those other fans, and maybe non the preferred color scheme, but they are very good fans with good functioning and quality.

Thanks !
Given the small price difference with the Arcitc and some returns well-nigh motor noise at some RPMs and redux'south acceptable colour scheme, I'm OK with the cheapo Noctuas

What would you suggest between the two options:

I buy 2x NF-P14 redux 1500 PWM and put them equally front intake, movig one of my Corsair AF140 to top-rear (replacing ane of the X2 GP) and keeping my other X2 GP as rear.
I buy 1x NF-P14 redux 1500 PWM that will go top-rear and 1x NF-P12 redux 1700 PWM that will become rear (so replacing both my X2 GP) , keeping my Corsair AF140 as front end intake.

Karadjgne · December 26, 2012 28,795 3,762 126,140 5,106

The Corsair are AF, that's airflow. As in loftier cfm. Those type of fans work far better as exhausts, there'southward no real impediment or need for static pressure level at exhaust position, but a need to movement air. The Noctua take equitable cfm just college sp, then are much more than suited for getting air To the gpu area and up under the cpu libation.

Static pressure being the force of air, cfm being the corporeality of air. Non the same thing.

And so I'd go with 2x Redux at intake and motion the Corsair to the exhaust position. Option #1. You lot can always opt for a Corsair AF120 at the rear merely that's more than for symmetry or aesthetics appeal. I'd likewise adjust the fan curves so that the Noctua maintain at to the lowest degree a i/3rd higher rpm for normal usage, especially if using the foam

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 five,379 167,690 9,178

Replace them all with cheapo Noctua fans. Become three of the 140mm P14s 1500rpm Redux fans and ane of the P12 1700rpm Redux fans, then sell your Corsair fans to make upward for it. Or, if you want to stay with Corsair and only improve in the surface area of airflow and static pressure, the Corsair Maglev fans are pretty good besides, if you lot go the Non-RGB Maglev model. The RGB model, like nigh RGB fan models, has reduced specifications compared to the non-RGB model. Less CFM, lower static pressure, probably potentially higher noise level, etc.

Myself, I've given up looking at any other options really. Cheapo Noctua or else the A14 or F12 chromax.black.bandy fans if it needs to be a premium fan. Even the "earth tones" models are fine with me really. For actually over the acme performance the iPPC industrial Noctua fans, but you lot accept to know what yous are getting into with those because they Practice move a lot of air, they DO have insanely high static pressure ratings and they Exercise have a significantly higher noise level than the non-industrial NF-A14 1500rpm variety. But they'll cool the crap out of something too.

Honestly I don't recommend ever using those anymore unless information technology's in an application where you won't be sitting by it, like in a cabinet or server room. The regular Noctua (And other brands) blazon fans are more than plenty for 99% of systems.

hornetmax

Cheers to both for the replies. Went with two P14 1500 redux: I'll slam these in (as in selection 1 above) and come across what I go, and then ponder if more is needed !

hornetmax · Nov 2, 2011 18 0 eighteen,510 0

Hi once more, new fans in and ... well, I'd say no significant alter in temps and now when nether total load, the system makes more than dissonance (guess that's due to the P14s going up to 1500rpm where my AF140 were but going up to 1150rpm).

Even with the P14s front, if I remove the front and peak filters the CPU and VRMs temps go down significantly, roughly like with the AF140. Most of the gain comes with removing the front end filter (mesh+foam, whil etop is mesh only).

So what'southward the determination here ? Aside taking the filters out (when needed, h265 encoding for me) and other more radical options (better CPU cooler, better MB), what's left ? Undervolting the 9900K and encounter if I can have better temps for the aforementioned stock settings ?

Darkbreeze · Jun 24, 2014 72,367 5,379 167,690 ix,178

The decision is, nothing surprising. When you remove obstacles and obstructions, air moves easier. That should be easy plenty to blot. The more things you get out of the way, the better airflow and cooling are able to piece of work. That is, and ever will be, the case.

As far as the fans go, I told yous already in the beginning that the exhaust fans were likely to be the place where gains could be had by adding or changing fans, non the front intakes. Exhaust = cooling operation. Intake = dust suppression. Except that, you lot Demand at least moderately decent intake airflow to resupply the inside of the example with absurd air once the Frazzle fans have removed some portion of hot air from the case. A vacuum is no ameliorate, and likely much worse, at cooling, than hot air is, so exchanging hot for cool and keeping it all moving, is how y'all reduce thermals or increment thermal efficiency.

There are very few occasions actually where increasing intake pressure volition equal amend cooling functioning. I is when there IS no intake, and you add some intake. Another is when y'all lack sufficient intake, and you increment your intake chapters, but at some indicate intake's value diminishes if you do not equally or more greatly in fact, increase the exhaust performance as well.

Continue in mind, the VAST majority of systems out there that accept ever Come with cooling preinstalled, whether it'due south a case or a whole organisation, if they have only I fan installed, it is ALWAYS going to be the rear exhaust fan. That alone should prove you where the priority lies when it comes to fan placement priorities and force per unit area offsets.

It withal might not make a HUGE difference though. I'd probably get rid of the foam and leave the mesh if it were me. At least the mesh allows somewhat high airflow rates and will trap MOST of the incoming dust, while the foam volition greatly reduce airflow and cooling performance.

I'1000 certain it'due south also worth mentioning, although I'd gauge you have already as you're no dummy, to make darn certain that each fan is really faced the right management. Front mounted fans should have the fan blades pointed towards the exterior while rear and elevation fans should have their fan blades facing into the case. That way front end is bringing air in and top or rear are taking information technology out. Unproblematic to overlook sometimes.

Getting a case that will permit you to install 140mm fans in ALL locations, including the rear frazzle, like my Define S does (And most Fractal cases similar the Define S2, Ascertain six, etc.), would be helpful as well. 140mm fans, especially in exhaust locations, can typically move a lot more air than an otherwise decent 120mm fan.

hornetmax · Nov 2, 2011 18 0 eighteen,510 0

Yeah of course less obstacles is better, that was kind of clear even before

However putting "amend" fans at the front and replacing the top-rear exhaust 120mm X2 GP with an AF140 didn't make any difference (at least not on the temps I was looking at, CPU and VRMs under heavy loads): that seems kind of counter-intuitive (to me), given that removing the forepart filter drops 10C -15C.

Maybe I'll get a PF12 for the rear and see if this helps. Or before that, moving a PF14 top-rear exhaust and the AF140 back to front. Or maybe I'll just popular the filters when I have to utilize handbrake, nice and easy.

Final remarks;
- I noticed that a lot of air intake happens in the top-front fan slot (non used at the moment).
- I can see that no 140mm rear option is a scrap of a bummer but tbh I do like the fact the Meshify is pretty compact (as it'southward sitting next to my screen, on the desk).

P.S.
And yes, all fans are properly oriented thanks for request. Checked the arrows on their frames and put some very thin paper floating in front end of each fan, simply to be sure

Karadjgne · Dec 26, 2012 28,795 3,762 126,140 five,106

Most ppl assume that the intake side of a fan acts the same as the exhaust. It doesn't. But the opposite. The depression pressure level surface area created is only that, an expanse and information technology covers 180+° from the face of the fan upto 270° ish. And then if you take a belfry cooler and it's fan, the closest available source of unrestricted air, at a lower value than outside sir pressure, is the height. Peculiarly the summit-front.

Your intakes are putting air in. That air is going through gpu radiated heat, chipset radiated rut, ram radiated heat, drives, anything that creates oestrus in the front area of the instance, before information technology gets to the cpu fan. Height vent isn't.

So if case air temps are twoscore°C, that'due south what'southward getting shoved through the cpu, hit the VRM's etc.

If ambient outside air is 23°C, then that's what'due south getting shoved through the cpu libation when the top vent is accessible.

Warmer air through a heatsink is less effective than cooler air. That'southward why cpu and VRM temps are dropping when you remove the elevation, your cooler is more constructive.

At the price of the cpu fan not picking up well-nigh equally much case air, which allows case air to become even warmer, which and then affects everything else but that which is affected by the cpu fan.

Cpu temps are simply 1 part of the process, not the answer. Sacrificing example temps to drop cpu temps isn't the smartest move, merely it's all besides common because ppls priorities are causeless importance.

For all-time cpu temps put an intake fan on elevation near the cpu, but by that mensurate you accident whatsoever rise case heat dorsum into the case, defeating the entire purpose of airflow.

Jump on dropping 10° off the cpu all yous desire to, but don't mutter when the Sata chipset is pushing a toasty 95°C+, or the super i/o chipset is slowly roasting at over 100°C.

The air needs to catamenia. In and so out. Just moving it around does cipher, particularly under extended loads. Your total temp tests should exist done for an hour or more than at high loads, only to acclimate temps, a five infinitesimal test does zero.

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